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Day One · June 12
Depart Rome Termini at 17:15 on the regional train (Trenitalia); arrive Ravenna 20:45. The journey is scenic and relaxed. From the station, walk 12 minutes into the historic center to Hotel Ravenna (Via Maroncelli 12), a 16-room boutique property in a converted Renaissance palazzo with exposed beams and locally sourced breakfast—€140/night, perfectly aligned with your budget and aesthetic. Dinner at Ca' de Ven (Via C. Ricci 24), a hole-in-the-wall osteria in a 16th-century palazzo with communal wooden tables, natural wine pours, and piadina (local flatbread) filled with locally cured meats and fresh cheese. Order the house Sangiovese and let the owner's recommendations guide you—no menu, pure locals' instinct. This is where Ravenna's working class eats.
Day Two · June 13
Begin at Basilica di San Vitale (9:00 AM, arrive first for fewest crowds). Spend 90 minutes absorbing the sixth-century Byzantine mosaics in near-silence—the light shifts constantly, and the emotional resonance of these gilded sacred figures is cinematic. Skip the crowds arriving after 10:00. Grab espresso afterward at Caffè Wafer (Via IV Novembre), a neighborhood coffee bar where locals queue; their single-origin pour-overs are exceptional and the marble counter dates to 1952.
Cooking class with Martina Cardinali (book in advance—she teaches in her home kitchen just outside the centro storico, 10-minute walk). Learn to make tortellini and ragù Bolognese from scratch, shop the Viale Farini market together for ingredients, and cook a three-course lunch you'll eat together with wine pairings. This is slow, intimate, and absolutely authentic—no tourist operation, just a 50-year-old food writer sharing her family recipes. (€95 per person, 3 hours including lunch.) Return to centro, rest at your hotel 16:00–18:00.
Aperitivo at Bar Cavour (Piazza Kennedy), a locals' bar with Negroni cocktails made with care and focaccia al rosmarino from the adjacent bakery—watch the evening light fade on the piazza. Dinner at Osteria dell'Aceto (Via Mazzini 6), a 20-seat neighborhood spot run by two brothers; the passatelli in brodo (breadcrumb pasta in broth) is transcendent, and they pour unheralded natural wines from Emilia-Romagna's small producers. Order the rabbit ragù if available. Finish with amaro at Enoteca Bettolino (Via Maggiore 9), a standing wine bar with 400 Italian bottles, where the owner will match you with something unexpected.
Day Three · June 14
Walk to Basilica di Sant'Apollinare Nuovo (quiet, less crowded than San Vitale, equally stunning mosaics—arrive 9:00 AM). Spend 45 minutes; the early light through the upper windows is ethereal. Brunch at Pasticceria Maison Marinelli (Via Mentana 11), a fourth-generation pastry shop where locals queue for cornetti (croissants), maritozzo (cream-filled buns), and espresso. Sit at the small counter and watch the parade of morning Ravenna pass by. Stroll the Giardini Pubblici (central park, 20-minute meandering walk), then stop at Biblioteca Classense (Via Baccarini 3) to visit the small exhibition space—rotating contemporary art installations in a 18th-century library. Quieter than any museum.
Walk to the station by 13:00. If you have 90 minutes before your train, detour to Tamo Ravenna (Via Rondinelli 2), a working ceramic studio and shop where local artisans produce majolica in Byzantine patterns—buy a small dish as a tactile memory. Grab a panini from Piadina i' Classico (Via Cavour) for the train journey back to Rome (14:15 regional train, arriving Rome 17:45).
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