Your Weekend Destination

# DESTINATION: Portland, Maine

Portland is a coastal jewel just 100 minutes north of Boston—close enough for a spontaneous escape, far enough to feel like genuine departure—with world-class restaurants punching above its weight, genuine maritime charm, and a romantic waterfront that doesn't feel manufactured.

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## FRIDAY, JUNE 19 EVENING

Drive from Boston via I-95 North (1 hour 45 minutes). Arrive in Portland by early evening. Check into your hotel by 6:00 PM.

Head to *Eventide Oyster Co.* (86 Middle Street; open daily 11 AM–10 PM). This is Portland's most celebrated seafood restaurant—James Beard Award–nominated, locally obsessive, and worth the modest wait. The uni baked in the shell and brown butter lobster roll are transcendent. Expect a vibrant, unpretentious bar scene and genuine excellence.

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## SATURDAY, JUNE 20

Climb the *Portland Observatory* (Congress Street at Munjoy Hill; open daily 10 AM–5 PM; $5 entry). Built in 1807, this is Maine's oldest surviving structure and offers 360-degree views of Casco Bay and the city below. Arrive just after opening to beat crowds.

Descend hungry to *Holy Donut* (7 Exchange Street; open 7 AM–7 PM daily). A beloved local institution serving potato donuts (the recipe comes from a defunct Maine potato chip company)—the maple bacon and old-fashioned varieties are iconic. Pair with excellent coffee.

Drive south 20 minutes to *Two Lights State Park (67 Two Lights Road, Cape Elizabeth; open dawn–dusk; $9 Maine vehicle day pass). Walk the scenic coastal trail to Portland Head Light and Cape Elizabeth Light (visible from the park). Dramatic rocky headlands, genuine solitude, and postcard-perfect views. Pack a picnic or grab sandwiches from Scratch Baking Co.* (416 Congress Street, back in Portland; open 8 AM–6 PM) before you leave.

Dinner at *Fore Street* (288 Fore Street; open Tuesday–Saturday 5:30–10 PM, closed Sunday–Monday). James Beard–winning chef Sam Hayward's temple to Maine ingredients—wood-fired, seasonal, profound. The roasted chicken and fish of the day change nightly; whatever you order will be life-affirming. Book 2 weeks ahead. This is worth the splurge.

After dinner, walk the *Old Port waterfront* (Congress Street to Fore Street area). Browse independent galleries and boutiques that stay open late, or simply sit on a bench and watch boats bob in the harbor. The light lingers until 9:15 PM in mid-June.

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## SUNDAY, JUNE 21

Brunch at *Local 188* (188 Congress Street; open Saturday 10 AM–3 PM, Sunday 10 AM–2 PM). A bohemian, artist-owned café with excellent coffee, fresh pastries, and inventive eggs. Intimate, genuine, beloved by locals.

Spend the next two hours exploring the *Arts District around Congress Street—independent bookshops, vintage stores, and small galleries tucked into historic buildings. Longfellow Books* (1 Monument Way; open Monday–Saturday 9 AM–7 PM, Sunday 10 AM–6 PM) is Portland's beloved independent bookstore, worth an hour alone.

Drive back to Boston via I-95 South (1 hour 45 minutes). You'll arrive by 2:15 PM, leaving the whole afternoon open.

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## WHERE TO STAY

A boutique property in a converted 1920s newspaper building, beautifully restored with original details, a cozy lobby library, and excellent service. Well within moderate budget (~$200/night). Central location on the Old Port.

A historic hotel with charm and character in a quieter pocket near the Portland Museum of Art. Fewer frills than The Press, but authentic, comfortable, and modestly priced (~$140/night).

Waterfront position, more upscale but still in moderate range (~$250/night on June 19). The harbor views and proximity to restaurants make it worth the stretch.

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## GETTING THERE

By Car:* I-95 North from Boston (1 hour 45 minutes, 107 miles). Straightforward highway driving. Return via same route.

Parking:* Street parking in the Old Port is metered but available; most hotels offer parking ($15–25/night). Plan to walk once you're downtown.

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## INSIDER TIPS

—Book Fore Street at least 2 weeks ahead* (207-775-2717 or online). It's small, wildly popular, and you don't want to miss this meal. Lunch is easier to secure if dinner is fully booked.

—Local secret: Skip the touristy harbor cruise boats and instead rent sea kayaks from Maine Island Kayak Co.* (70 Luther Street, Peaks Island, 25 minutes north via ferry; half-day tours $65–85). Paddle among the islands at sunrise for a transcendent, quiet experience most visitors never find. Book ahead in summer.

—Visit Cape Elizabeth Lighthouse State Park early* (arrive by 10:30 AM) or late afternoon (after 4 PM). Midday brings tour buses. The light at 5:30 PM is unbeatable for photography and romance.